Breeding & Culling

         Rabbits will not eat their young just because you’ve touched them! If your rabbit knows you, she knows your smell and won’t care in the least if her babies smell like you. It’s important to check on the babies. You cannot simply leave them in there and wait for them to start coming out of the nest box weeks later.

         Feed your doe extra food while she’s nursing her babies. Once the babies start coming out (at two to three and a half weeks of age) increase the amount of food so that there’s enough for mom and her kits. The doe will teach them to drink from the bowl or water bottle, to use the litter box (if she does), and that it’s okay to eat fruits and veggies (again, if she does, herself).

         Babies can be weaned at the age of eight weeks.

by Chris Zemny, ARBA Judge

Breeding & Culling

The most important thing one must realize when breeding Holland Lops is that CULLING is a must. Hollands do not always breed true. You can breed two grand champions and end up with all pet store bunnies. You can also breed two average Hollands and end up with phenomenal stock.

In breeding try to always breed faults to good points. If one Holland has weak hips, do not breed it to another with weak hips, as that is all you will produce. Try to match up any faults in one rabbit to good points with the one that you are breeding it to. This is not as easy as it sounds. You will often find yourself doing a balancing act when trying to match up faults with strong points. For an example, a buck with a good crown and fair body, could be bred to a doe with poor ear carriage and a good body. Ideally, you should always attempt to breed rabbits with the fewest faults.

Another trap breeders get into is breeding by pedigree. What you see in a rabbit is often what will show up in its descendents. If there are good genes in the background, it will be easier to pull the good traits out, BUT you need to have what you are trying to pull out. Do not get caught in the trap of breeding certain Hollands because they have famous ancestors in the background. Remember that what you see is most likely what you will get.

Some lines of Hollands have certain traits that tend to be dominant. Massive heads, good bone, good type, size, condition, and fur all are very inheritable traits. Different Holland Lop lines are dominant for certain traits and very few lines are dominant for all. If you are breeding for massive heads, be sure you are working with a line that is known for dominant heads, or if you are breeding to improve size and condition, be sure you are working with a line known to be dominant for these traits. Temperament, although not a part of the Holland Lop standard, is also very inheritable. A mean feisty doe will produce mean, feisty offspring; and likewise, a gentle, curious Holland will produce more of the same. I will personally not keep Hollands with the nickname of "Fang".

Not all lines of Holland Lops are compatible and some will have a synergistic effect, with the offspring being much better than the parents. You will have to work this pattern out in your own herd by trial and error. If a buck from line A is breed to a doe from line B and the offspring turn out fantastic, most likely that same buck will produce fantastic offspring with other does from line B. Likewise, if you produce some stock from this breeding that even a pet store wouldn't like, I would be very cautious of breeding this buck to any other does from line B. Some crosses are definitely synergistic and some are definitely antagonistic. This is why you will need to keep accurate records and be sure to record any trends that you see.

One suggestion, when establishing trends within your lines, is to take your best buck and breed him to all your does. You will quickly see which lines work and which do not.

INBREEDING VERSES OUTCROSSING

Inbreeding is the breeding of related rabbits of different generations, father to daughter, mother to son. Linebreeding is the breeding of a particular animal to several generations of his offspring. Both linebreeding and inbreeding will intensify or fix a trait, good or bad.

Outcrossing is the breeding of two unrelated rabbits. This is especially good for establishing hybrid vigor. Most rabbits that are inbred over several generations tend to lose vigor. For example, after several generations of inbreeding, a line may turn up a susceptibility to colds, enteritis, or pregnancy related problems. Outcrossing helps to eliminate these problems.

Often, in the breeding of large livestock and plants, two tightly inbred lines are maintained. The best stock is produced by the crossing of these two inbred lines. This is known as an outcross. The trick to doing this with rabbits is to work with two compatible lines. As discussed earlier, not all Holland Lop lines are compatible.

An example of an effective outcross would be to cross a dominant head line and a dominant body line. Crossing these two lines could produce near perfect Holland Lops.

Other breedings which should not necessarily be avoided are broken to broken crosses and brother to sister crosses. When breeding broken to broken the worst things that could happen are the occurrence of "charlies", which are brokens carrying two broken genes and have very little pattern, and the occurrence of fuzzy Hollands, which make good pet shop bunnies. Breeding of a heavy pattern lop with a light pattern lop will produce heavy to light patterns, with the majority being good, if not perfect patterned lops.

When you breed brother to sister, you really intensify the dominant traits. The catch with this breeding is that you have to cull severely. When it fixes the traits, it fixes both the good and the bad traits. We have produced a few of our best rabbits, and also so me of our worst with this type of a cross. You may only get one good rabbit each litter, but they have been worth it, and they tend to be more genetically pure and typically dominant. Just be sure to realize that as much as it strengthens the good qualities, it also strengthens the bad.

CULLING

Culling is the most important part of any breeding program. Two key words that need to be used when culling are "strict" and accurate". Everyone culls, the trick is to do it well.

For accurate culling you will need to breed to the standard. To do this you will need to have a picture in your mind of a perfect Holland Lop. Without this mental picture, good culling will be next to impossible.

When you are looking at your Holland try to visualize what is not there, as well as what is. It is easy to see faults that are there, narrow head, long muzzle, poor ear carriage, pinched hips, etc. Looking for what is not there is a little harder, but will easily show you flatness of crown, unfilled cheeks, sloping hindquarters, incorrect topline, and other body faults.

I cull my Hollands at 5 to 6 weeks (on teeth and disqualifications only), 12 to 13 weeks, 5 months, and 10 to 12 months of age.

After 5 to 6 weeks of age, most Hollands go through an ugly "teenage" phase. I try not to look at them during this time frame. By 12 to 13 weeks of age, they seem to again blossom and can be culled on type. One needs to remember at this age they still haven't reached their head potential, but most body faults are easy to see.

To evaluate the head, check the profile for proper curvature. A good head will be round in every direction: side profile, front profile, and top profile. There should be nothing extra at the lower muzzle and no flat planes. I try to visualize drawing an upside down triangle on the Hollands face. The two side lines of the triangle are the lines between the eyes and the tip of the nose. The long bar of the triangle is between the corners of the eyes. This bar between the eyes should be longer than the other two lines. Look for good full cheeks also.

When you look and feel the body at this age, a good topline, a late start (when the spine is flat across the shoulders before it curves up across the back), undercut hindquarters, and pinched hips are already apparent. There should be a very slight taper from the shoulders to the hindquarters. Remember that shoulders increase in width with age.

Another aspect which helps me cull is to observe the bone. You can check the bone best by looking at the rear feet. Are they short and wide, or are they long and thin? A bunny with long thin feet and legs will almost always have a long and narrow body and will usually be long in the muzzle. You want the shortest, thickest, and heaviest bone that you can get. Be sure to also check for length of bone. The front legs should be short and stocky, not long and fine.

At five months most Hollands are showing their true show potential and by 10 months to one year, their heads are beginning to broaden. This is when senior Holland heads begin to really shape up. This process will continue throughout the life of the Holland, which is why the heads on 2 to 3 year old bucks look so much better than on younger rabbits.

EARS

There has been much discussion regarding temperature and ear length and carriage. Holland babies born in the winter do tend to have slightly shorter and thicker ears than those born in the summer months. But if you have a severe ear carriage problem, look at your Holland's crown development before you blame the weather. You not only need a crown that is wide on the head, but also one that is deep. Far to many Hollands today have lost their depth and width of crown, producing fair to poor ear carriage.

I have found that this problem can be corrected in one generation so it is a relatively easy fault to fix. All you need is a rabbit with a good crown to cross to your lops that have crown problems.

DISQUALIFICATIONS

There are several other problems that you should be aware of in your culling program, most of which are disqualifications. Many of us would like to believe that these problems do not exist, at least in our own herds, and very few are willing to admit to them. But believe me, they do exist and at one time or another, you will probably encounter one or two of them. Make sure you realize that most of these problems are genetic, and that breeding them into your herd could result in major problems in future generations.

TEETH

I cull on bad teeth at 5 to 6 weeks and again at 1 2 weeks of age. If the bottom teeth are in front of the top teeth at 5 to 6 weeks, I cull the rabbit. If the teeth meet straight on (peg teeth), I wait. Often a bunny that has peg teeth at 5 to 6 weeks, will have perfect teeth at 12 to 13 weeks of age. The top jaw grows out from the skull first, and is followed by the bottom jaw at 3 to 5 weeks of age, which is why this discrepancy occurs. This top jaw then grows again at around 12 weeks of age and will often correct a peg tooth problem. This skull changes again at 8 to 12 months of age, which can also affect the teeth.

As we are breeding rabbits with large round heads, proper curvature of the skull is critical. If either the upper or lower jaw is off even the slightest, malocclusion is the result. I believe that it is a combination of genes that control the rabbit's skull shape and not just one pair.

Not all head types are shaped the same. I have found that by breeding a rabbit with straight on teeth to one with a large gap between the front top and bottom incisures, the resulting litters have good teeth 99% of the time. Please do not misunderstand, me, I do not recommend that everyone keep Hollands with straight-on or bad teeth, unless they are willing to risk culling the offspring of future generations.

I have also found that teeth that go out at a later age, six months plus, tend to be very genetic, and do not keep any of these animals in my herd. I don't like to worry about teeth going out on senior animals, or waiting to see if the offspring from these animals have good teeth at eight or months of age.

DOES THAT BECOME BUCKS

I recently had the most gorgeous doe that place second at a local show. Two weeks later, she developed testicles. I had discovered my first split penis. Also called hypospadias, it is when the urethral opening is not on the tip of the penis but constitutes a large slit on the entire under side. There can be varying degrees of this problem, from a normal sized opening located too far down on the penis, to an incomplete closure of the urethral opening, creating a penis that is split all the way from the tip down to the base. These bucks will frequently look like does when sexed at an early age.

The penis will look better as the rabbit gets older, but these bucks will have a very characteristic curl to the penis when sexed. Upon closer examination, you will see the complete split. They will also be fertile, but as this is a highly inheritable trait, they should not be used for breeding.

EYE SPOTS

I have occasionally seen Hollands with whitish spots on their eyes, which is another genetic problem. Often there is a flaw, crimp, or pucker in the upper eye lid. These crimps and puckers can be seen at a very early age, and can be easily found when the upper eyelid is gently pulled back with your finger or thumb. The whitish spot is usually found on the surface of the cornea, below the iris. The spots usually develop after 4 to 8 months of age, and are usually easier to see on an older rabbit, which is why we check all young juniors for crimps or puckers on the eyelids.

There are two theories about eye spots and crimped eyelids. One theory is that the irregularity in the eyelid wears and abrades on the surface of the eye, causing the characteristic white spot on the cornea. The other theory is that the crimp creates an air pocket, which leaves the cornea dry creating a small abscess (spot). A eye infection, either by bacteria or fungi, will also cause scaring (white spots) on the cornea.

WHITE SPOTS

White toenails and white spots are other genetic outcrops that we as breeders do not like to see in our herds. Rather than plucking white spots and stray white hairs, we as breeders should be breeding and culling to eliminate them. Do note that white spots can be caused by injury, or by genetic predisposition. Keep the former, cull the later.

Some breeders feel that an abundance of brokens in the background will cause white spots and stray white hairs, but I have not found this to be true. To clean up blacks with stray white hairs, you need to bred to clean blacks without the stray white hairs. It is easily corrected by breeding in this manner.

WHITE TOENAILS

White or mismatched toenails are usually found on the middle toenails of the front feet. Questionable toenails can be best compared to the dewclaw, which will be darker. Questionable toenails will usually lighten with age, rather than darken. This is also a inherited trait, usually showing up on the same toenail(s) in future generations.

I've covered several genetic problems, and I am sure that there are several others out there. We all have different beliefs about what genetic problems we will or will not tolerate in our own herds. The bottom line to avoiding them all is to cull. I cannot stress enough how important culling is. It is the mechanism to change your herd. The harder you cull, the quicker the change. Be honest with yourself in your breeding program, as the only person you ultimately fool is yourself.

BUYING STOCK

If you are serious about breeding Holland Lops, the best suggestion I have for you is to purchase the best buck that you can afford. You will need to get a picture in your head of what a perfect Holland Lop looks like, and find a buck which comes as close to your picture as possible. If the perfect buck comes with a high price tag, wait, save and buy the rabbit. The investment will be worth it. Just remember that when you are linebreeding, you always return to your best animal which is usually your herd buck. He is the most important acquisition to your breeding program. You will use him generation after generation.

GOOD LUCK

With a little luck and a lot of persistence you should find your nest boxes full of quality little Hollands which will do well on the show tables.

HLRSC Official Guidebook - 4th Edition 1996

Breeding & Culling 2

After the kits are born, I examine them thoroughly for defects and abnormalities. All such are culled immediately. Other than checking on their well-being every few days, I don't examine the kits until they are four to five weeks of age. In my herd, there seems to be a definite relationship between "type" at this age and "type" at maturity.

Each rabbit should be thoroughly examined for structural development. This includes all bones and teeth. The teeth should have a normal overbite (top over bottom) even though as the head continues to grow teeth problems could still occur. Legs should be straight without being too long or of a fine bone. The body shape or type is the easiest matter to evaluate. We are looking for round and smooth hindquarters with a full loin. This characteristic will never be any better than it is as this age. The body must have depth to balance with the length and width. The shoulders will need careful examination. They will "fill out" some as the rabbit matures; therefore, we can allow a slightly more narrow shoulder at four weeks than we would want on the mature rabbit. However, depth at the shoulders must be there now.

Our standard emphasizes head shape and quality. Now our big question is: "What will that head look like when the rabbit is grown?" Honestly, I don't know. In the profile, we want a roundness to the head, especially from the crown to the nose. There must be a good width between the eyes for the head to be approximately the same width as the body. Ear carriage can change with age, but the shape and thickness of the ear can be evaluated now. Thin, narrow, or folded ears are undesirable and usually are found on long narrow heads. A good wide space between the ears is necessary for a proper crown development.

This is the time to check for color disqualifications in the fur and eyes. Count the toenails and check their color. Any rabbit with general disqualifications should be culled.

Why not temporarily mark each rabbit in one ear with a magic marker; then examine them again in a couple of days. This procedure has helped me to find the ones that should be culled and the ones that should be tattooed. It will also be a good test of your consistency in judging animals.

Most rabbits go through an ugly stage. This begins at about eight weeks of age and lasts for about eight weeks. Does tend to mature faster than bucks, and there are always exceptions to the rules.

At about four month of age, I can tell more about the quality of my Holland Lops. The good ones should be ready for the show table. But before we enter them in any show, every rabbit should be carefully examined. I use the same procedure that I did when they were four weeks old. By keeping records, you can see if that one you thought would be good turned out to be so. Eventually, you must decide "Do I keep it or cull it?" Don't be afraid to say, "That is not what I want." Go ahead and cull it.

One more area of culling is in terms of production. Reproduction traits are highly inheritable. Does that have a poor conception rate, small litters, or poor mothering ability should be culled. Breeding records on bucks should be kept and those with a poor performance should be culled.

Breeding: How To

by T. L. Andrews, PhD, ARBA Judge

You get two rabbits and before you know it you will have hundreds. This is a standard comment or joke we have all heard. However, every Holland Lop breeder knows this just is not true. Raising good Hollands is our goal when we start, but what to do and how to do it takes knowledge and some planning.

Selection of breeding stock requires careful consideration and is very important in producing good quality Hollands. Before breeding those chosen, examine the buck and doe for signs of poor health. Do not attempt to breed unhealthy animals. When the doe is ready to breed, her vulva will appear to be red in color and moist. Take the doe to the buck's cage for breeding. This rule should always be followed since does may be aggressive and even injure a rabbit put in her cage. Mating should occur quickly and when completed, the buck usually falls on his side. This action is easily recognized. To insure conception, some form of "double breeding" is recommended. This may be re-breeding six to ten hours later or the next day or some other variation. If the doe refuses the buck, try several days in succession.

The gestation period for does is 30 - 32 days. This is the time from mating until kindling. Pregnancy can be determined by palpating the doe 14-18 days after breeding. To test, restrain the doe with one hand on the head while placing the other hand under the body in the abdominal area. The developing kits can be felt as you examine the uterus with the thumb and two fingers.

A nest box should be placed in the doe's cage about 28 days after breeding. A 10 by 16 inch box made of plywood is an ideal size for Hollands. One - fourth of one side can be cut out to allow the doe easier access. A top can be used on the box to encourage the doe to use it. The top, if used, should be removed after the kits are one week of age. The nest box should contain some nesting material such as straw. The doe will pull fur to complete the nest for the young kits.

After the doe has kindled, the litter should be inspected. All dead and abnormal kits should be removed. Fostering some of the young kits may be considered, if the litter is larger or smaller than normal. Normally, a Holland doe does well with four kits or no more than six. When transferring young to another doe, they should be marked for identification, unless they are a different color.

With a little luck and persistence, you will develop your own management practices for your herd. May all your nest boxes be full!

Nest Boxes

I start with a wood nest box which is cut of 3/4 inch plywood. I find wood cooler in the summer and warmer in winter than the commercially available metal boxes. Line the floor of the box with an absorbent material, such as Dry Nest, pine shaving or shredded paper. Do not use cedar shavings. Add a large handful of soft grass hay such as timothy or marsh hay if available. Plain straw also works. Hollow out a spot in the hay at the back of the box with your fist. This will encourage the doe to burrow there. I always keep extra fur for emergencies such as a stingy doe in the middle of the winter.

Breeding Problems

by Skip Godfrey

Most breeding problems in Hollands can usually be attributed to three factors: environment, diet, or health. In attempting to isolate the possible causes of breeding problems in ones herd let us look at each one of these factors in detail.

The first factor we will need to consider is environment, and the one thing in a Holland's environment that will have the most pronounced effect upon the production of the doe is light, or lack of it. In order for a Holland Lop doe to be receptive, the doe must be exposed to at least 16 hours of light per day. The reason for this is that in the wild, the rabbit is a seasonal breeder. This seasonal receptivity is governed by both light, and to a certain extent temperature. The pineal gland at the base of the rabbit's brain is sensitive to light and when it detects a shortening of the day-length it decreases the secretion of certain reproductive hormones. If you are housing your Hollands indoors and expect to breed them throughout the year, then you should provide them with artificial lighting that is at least sixteen hours in duration per day, or the same length as the longest day of the year in your area.

I personally feel that not only is the quantity of light important, but also the quality. Research is now showing that the narrow spectrum of light that is produced by both incandescent as well as the regular (cool white) fluorescent lights is having certain adverse effects on the well being of humans and animals. To circumvent these problems, certain manufacturers of artificial lighting have attempted to create a source of light that simulates the wide spectrum of light found in sunlight. One such product is the Vita-Lite fluorescent light by Duro-Test. I can highly recommend the Vita-Lite fluorescent lights as I have used them in my rabbitry for nearly four years, and they have proven their value in enhancing the reproductive capabilities of my Hollands as well as in helping to eliminate both airborne and surface bacteria.

The Vita-Lite is as close an approximation of natural sunlight as modern science is able to provide. These lights not only produce ultraviolet light to kill bacteria, but they also induce the production of Vitamin D in both humans and animals, hence the name Vita-Lite. In areas of your rabbitry where you can only use incandescent lights, you might try the new Daylight-Blue light bulbs which also simulate the full spectrum of light produced by the sun. Since a four foot Vita-Lite tube costs upwards of $15 and a Daylight-Blue bulb costs nearly $5, many rabbit breeders may consider the cost of installing such lighting to be prohibitive. I am well aware of the value of excellent lighting in the reproduction of animals, and I know that the extra Hollands I produce as a result of this lighting more than compensates for the cost of their installation.

Further attempts at simulating the natural environment of your does and increasing their production may be made with the installation of negative ion generators. I have been using these in my rabbitry for over two years and find that they increase production and also keep the environment free from airborne pollutants; I recommend these highly. Negative ion generators work by generating negatively charged ions which are released into the air and attach themselves to dust particles, ammonia molecules, airborne bacteria, and other pollutants and cause them to fall to the floor or be attracted to any object that maintains a ground potential. Research is now showing that negative ions in the environment not only contribute to one's health and well being, but that they improve immunity, health, and overall production in animals. More and more modern animal production facilities are installing negative ion generators in their buildings.

These devices are also relatively expensive. The ion probes that are advertised in Domestic Rabbits magazine cost approximately $50 each, and again many rabbit breeders may find this prohibitive. In my opinion they are worth every penny. The more you install, the cleaner the air.

The second factor that can cause severe production problems in Holland does is improper and/or inadequate diet. I know that many Holland Lop breeders restrict the diets of their Hollands. If you over-restrict a doe in attempts to keep her weight within show limits, then you may be denying her the very nutrition she needs to conceive, gestate, lactate, and still maintain her own metabolism.

Conversely, overfeeding a Holland can cause accumulations of fat to develop around the ovaries which can also prevent conception. If you are feeding a high calorie pellet, this is even more conducive to fat buildup. The best way to prevent this problem from happening is that once a doe is in production--keep her in production. Try to get at least two or three litters from her each year. If a doe remains idle for six months to a year, she may never conceive again.

Many times breeding problems can be caused by the lack of certain vitamins in the diet of the doe. Although these vitamins may originally have been incorporated into the rabbit pellets by the manufacturer, certain vitamins tend to deteriorate as a result of the manufacturing process due to the heat employed in pelleting. Also, most vitamins will deteriorate with age, and who knows how long the pellets have been lying around in the warehouse before being delivered. It is, therefore, a good idea to supplement your Hollands with the addition of vitamins in their drinking water. Another dietary supplement for rabbits is produced by the Vita-Stress company that advertises in Domestic Rabbits. This manufacturer claims that their product will help most problem does to conceive. Vita-Stress is a pelleted vitamin and mineral supplement that is fed by adding several of these pellets to the rabbit's diet on a daily basis. If you have a valuable doe that will not conceive, it may be worth giving this product a try.

The third factor that can affect production i n the Holland is health. There are two organisms that are the primary cause of problems involving the entire herd. One of these organisms is a "spiroformis" that has recently been isolated by the Chief of Pathology at Purdue University. This entity has been causing reproductive problems in rabbits throughout the United States. Not too much is known about this disease which is neither a bacterium nor a virus, but is what is known as mycoplasma. One thing for sure, it is difficult to kill, and at the present time, all you can do is wait until your rabbits can develop a certain amount of immunity to its effects.

From my experience with this entity, it seems that it affects the digestive system of a rabbit inhibiting the animal from extracting sufficient amounts of energy from its diet to be able to reproduce and still maintain its own metabolism. Since there is no cure at this time, the only solution is to increase the energy level of the feed to compensate for the action of this "spiroformis". Therefore, you may find that the same rabbit pellets that worked well for you in the past may now be too low in energy to enable your does to produce, the "spiroformis" organism does not kill rabbits, it merely weakens them.

Another organism that will affect production is a mold that can be found in hay from time to time and can even get into your rabbit pellets. This is an estrogen producing mold, and estrogen, as you may know, is a female hormone that is secreted by the doe. The ingesting of the estrogen producing mold by the doe will throw the hormonal system of the rabbit out of balance causing problems with reproduction.

Fortunately, a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar per gallon of drinking water will neutralize the effects of this mold. Since apple cider vinegar is purported to also have other beneficial effects on the rabbit, I make a practice of adding a whole tablespoon of this vinegar to each gallon of water I prepare for my Hollands. You never know when you will get a dose of this mold in your feed, so why take a chance?

Other organisms which can cause severe reproduction problems in Hollands are parasites such as coccidiosis and worms. Severe infections of these parasites can be devastating to production because a parasitized doe is a weakened doe, and as such may not be able to conceive or carry her young to term.

If your does are emaciated and you can feel the vertebra of their spines when you rub your hand over their backs, you may want to consider taking some stool samples to your veterinarian. If you do have these parasites, a good drug treatment program along with strict attention to cage sanitation will get rid of them in a hurry.

Sometimes a doe can have a retained fetus which will prevent pregnancy. A retained fetus in rabbit prevents pregnancy much in the same way that an IUD works in humans. Not much can be done for this so the doe should be culled from the herd.

Up to this point our discussion has been limited to the doe. However, it is important to realize that there can also be problems with a buck. Many bucks will become sterile in the summer as a result of being exposed to temperatures above 85 degrees. This is not a permanent condition, but it can put your buck out of commission for a couple of months.

Most Holland bucks do not produce sperm until they are at least six months of age. Bucks under this age may breed the does like crazy, but they are still sterile.

Sometimes a buck over 2 years of age will also become sterile for no reason at all. They will usually "come back" but it can be frustrating to breed ones old herd buck into all of the does only to wait for 31 days and have nothing.

If you own or have access to a clinical microscope, it is easy to check sperm. Simply let the buck breed a doe, and then take a vaginal smear with a cover slip. Place the cover slip on a slide and view the sperm at a magnification of 400. If you see many sperm moving at a high rate of speed, you have a fertile buck. If you have only a limited number of sperm that move very lowly, chances are the buck is close to being sterile.

Holland Lops can be very productive animals so long as you provide them with a clean environment, furnish them with a proper diet, avoid extremes in temperature, keep them free from parasites and disease, and breed does to bucks that you know are fertile.

Breeding Tips

by Lisa Sheets

Split Penis

After several months of breeding to all my does, I still had no babies. Upon closer examination of the buck, it was discovered that the he had a split in his penis, just above the base.

This is a problem that the breeder of the animal need to be made aware of since it is a GENETIC abnormality and is passed on to the offspring. Unfortunately, this type of problem is difficult to check due to the fact that the split can occur quite low and not be detected unless the entire penis is exposed outside of the sheath. Other splits that occur nearer to the tip can be identified much easier during examination, and they may still be able to impregnate a doe. What happens when there is a split (or opening) in the penis is similar to squeezing a tube of toothpaste that has a hole in the side of the tube. Some paste does come out of the top but quite a bit of paste also comes out the hole in the side. In rabbit terms, much of the sperm never gets deposited correctly, thereby lowering fertility. Although bucks with a split penis that occurs closer to the tip may still sire offspring, it is NOT a good idea to use a buck with this problem, since it is a GENETIC CODED PHYSICAL PROBLEM that is passed on and is undesirable in your breeding program.

"Teenage Uglies"

Rabbits go through a growth spurt much like adolescent humans (without the acne), where their body grows at such a rapid rate that they become gangly and yes, ugly. The age this happens can differ with different genetic lines, but the average age that this growth phase starts is between 6 to 12 weeks. The rabbit stops growing and levels out between 4 to 6 months. However, it can take up to a year and a half for some genetic lines to mature and look like Holland Lops again. It is a good idea when purchasing new stock to ask the breeder at what age you can expect to see this occur. It is also difficult to properly evaluate body type during this phase, and why you have to keep Holland babies a lot longer than you do other breeds.

Developing Your Own Family Line

Many new breeders and/or new buyers have asked me for recommendations on how to get started with a good breeding program. Of course, they want to know how to get consistent production of hollands….

 1) Buy the very best herd buck from a reputable breeder. This buck should have many, if not most, of the qualities that you see to be consistent with the standard. This is very important, for if you have junk, you will breed and produce junk.  Bite the bullet, don’t be afraid to start all over if you realize that what you have is marginal at best, and purchase the very best set of genetics you can get your hands on.

 2) If you aren’t able to purchase a trio of animals (the herd buck with two does), try your best to mix your new herd buck with does that have something genetically that he lacks.  Compensate for his shortcoming and hope that the “blend” happens.

 3) Breed the doe’s female offspring back to the herd buck.  This is one form of “line breeding” and it is the fastest way to improve your chances of getting offspring that closely resembles what it came from.  In this case, since we are compounding the herd buck’s genetics you should end up with animals that look like him… thus emphasizing the point I made in tip number one!

 4) Keep the best animals after watching litters develop completely into adults.  This may sound like a lot of work to do, but it is the only way for you to be sure about the “family” line of genetics you are developing.  By watching a few generations you can learn how your line develops, bow quickly or slowly, whether there are growth spurts at certain points in time causing them to go through “the uglies”, etc.  With this knowledge, you can gain the confidence and accuracy required to effectively cull at earlier stages and not end up getting rid of all the “right” animals before you even know what you have.  How many times have you heard the story from someone about selling what they thought was an absolutely ugly junior, only to regret it later on as they watch it winning BOB at the shows?

Having Winter Babies

by Dwayne Neal, NY

After such a long, hot, and dry summer here in the Northeast, where we had trouble keeping our rabbits comfortable from the extreme heat, it is hard to think about winter. But, now that the shows are over, it's "full production" time for whatever your reason, whether for show or sell. Here are some tips for everyone!

Minimize the cold drafts - It isn't so much the cold that the rabbits can't take, as it is the wind. Anything that you can do to minimize direct cold drafts will help immensely (of course, you do not want to completely seal your rabbitry with no venting at all).

Utilize heaters - For those of us who do not have state-of-the-art buildings, or have our rabbits in our houses, chances are you are dealing with a small shed or barn. I often recommend using heaters. However, in many ways it is more for my comfort than theirs, since I do not want to be cold when out there, and do not want to have to deal with frozen water! Electric or kerosene work equally as well and the effort to keep the animals protected from the extremes of the cold will only keep them healthier, happier, and less stressed.

Remove nest boxes from the cold - If/when the weather is particularly brutal, you may want to bring the nest boxes with the babies inside your house during the day and night. This requires that you implement a controlled feeding program with them, bringing them out to their mother twice a day for her to feed both once in the morning and once at night.

Save excess fur - I cannot tell you how many times I was glad to have a supply of excess fur for emergencies. In the winter the demand is at it's greatest especially when dealing with first-time mothers who often do not pull enough fur to even cover their offspring and/or complete mess in the nest box to the extent that the entire nest needs replacing. I recommend that you save good, clean, excess fur from those does that "love to pull" when you have the opportunity, and save it for a rainy (freezing) day!

Heat lamps and/or pads - I tent to tell folks to try to shy away from these kinds of things, as they tend to create another level of the artificial environment that rabbits shouldn't really need. Yes, they are nice to have for the occasional emergency of the "must save" litter, but generally you should not need this level of life support for your animals.

Holland Lop Does

by Debra Sandoval

This article focuses on the care, feeding and culling of Does. It contains a list of questions that both beginning and experienced breeders may have pondered at one time or another. The answers are ones that I would give, please keep in mind these are only my opinions based upon my experiences with my rabbits. Other people may have different opinions as not all rabbits are the same in their development or their behaviors.

Are does just under 3 pounds to small to breed?

No, I have had does as small as 2 1/2 lbs. have babies just fine. Sometimes the smaller does have more difficulties kindling and the babies may be born dead, but this is not always the case. Just be patient and keep trying and also be sure to breed to your smallest buck, at least for the first litter.

What should be done with a doe that has had two dead litters?

Depending upon the doe and how badly offspring are desired from her, I would probably keep trying. I have had does have three or four dead litters then finally start producing and become good mothers. Sometimes, I have found it helpful to try to foster some live babies from another mother to the problem doe immediately after she has had the dead babies. I think that the hormones released during lactation help to soften the tissues of the pelvic bones so that she may have an easier time with he r next delivery. Of course, the other consideration to keep in mind, is that the ease with which rabbits breed and kindle their babies is inheritable and do you want to possibly deal with breeding difficulties in future generations? As in all things with rabbits the advantages and disadvantages of the situation need to be weighed and the choice made by the breeder for that particular rabbit involved.

In a certain litter there are 2 small does and 1 large doe, if only one can be kept which one should it be?

I always base my decisions of which babies to keep on what their overall type is and/or what particular attributes I am trying to develop in my line, as opposed to what the size of the rabbit is, at least as far as does are concerned. A small doe that has poor hindquarters, weak shoulders, poor ear carriage etc., is not, as far as I am concerned, better than her larger sister who has better overall type. On the other hand if they both have equally good type then the smaller doe may be the better choice since it can probably be shown better than the larger doe, although the larger doe may be easier to breed.

A doe has been molting for two months, should you wait for her to finish before breeding her?

I think that the main consideration of whether or not to breed a doe is what her flesh condition is like. If she is not thin or bony then I would go ahead and try to breed her even if she is molting. She may not conceive if she is in a bad molt, and that should be allowed for, but it won't hurt to try.

What is the difference between "show" and "breeding" stock when purchasing rabbits?

A "show" doe, in my mind, is one that I would expect to be able to take to shows and be able to place well, which means that it not only does not have any disqualifications but that any faults which it may have are minimal. A "brood" doe on the other hand is not meant to be shown but rather is intended for breeding purposes. There are any number of things that could make a doe a "brood" doe, such as, uninheritable disqualifications like a severely torn or chewed off ear, a missing toenail, or an injury that subsequently developed a white spot. "Brood" does are also of ten what are called "normal" does or does that do not have the recessive dwarf gene. Rabbits which have one dwarf and one normal gene are the smaller "dwarf typed" rabbits with shorter ears and rounder, bolder heads. Those which have two dwarf genes are the very small "peanut" babies that die a week or two after birth. Rabbits which have two normal genes are larger (over 4 pounds), have longer ears, and narrower, less round heads. I often use these normal does in my breeding program since they will throw just as many dwarf typed babies when bred to a dwarf typed buck as smaller does, and they usually have larger litters with less kindling problems. A doe can also be referred to as a breeding doe if it is just not good enough to do well on the show table but yet does have some good traits which may be useful in a breeding program.

A grand champion doe has not produced any good babies, what is the problem?

Unfortunately, this is not that uncommon of a problem since in many Holland Lops there is a great deal of genetic diversity, which means that they don't always produce what they look like. This is especially true when outcrossing, that is breeding animals with no common ancestors. This becomes less and less of a problems as the size of the gene pool in a rabbit's background is decreased. What this means is that as your rabbits become more related to each other and have more of the same ancestors in their background they will breed more true and predictably.

What should be done with a litter of in week old babies whose heads look narrow despite having looked good for the first few weeks?

Between the ages of 6 to 7 weeks and 10 to 12 weeks I try to look at my babies as little as possible because they almost all look ugly to one degree or another. They also change so much that I have found myself greatly misjudging them based upon their appearance during that time. About all that I do during this time period is to cull out things like bad teeth and normal bucks (big with disproportionately long ears, bodies and heads). I especially don't look too much at their heads at this age because I have often been fooled by some that looked so ugly I thought there was no way they could ever be any good, but yet later developed into pretty nice looking rabbits.

I hope that some of these thoughts have been of help. As anyone who has been breeding Holland Lops for very long knows, they are a very challenging breed.

Kindling Problems

Frequent missed conceptions ("misses"), miscarriages, "stuck" babies, and tiny "peanut" babies carrying the fatal Dwarf gene are just a few of the things that can go wrong.

To improve the odds that a doe will conceive and not "miss", there are several steps a Holland breeder can take. Before breeding a doe, I check to see that she is healthy and in good physical condition. She should not be going through a moult, should not be overweight, nor too thin. If she looks fine, then I check her vulva. Here I want to see a nice shinny dark red coloration. If this checks out, I will introduce her to the buck. If the vulva is pale or light pink, chances are she will not willingly breed. In the past, I have tried forced breeding techniques, but have experienced less than 50% conception rate. If the doe is not receptive to the buck, I will make sure I return her to the buck every day for at least five consecutive days. When the buck breeds the doe, I will wait four to six hours and return her to the buck. I have found if I wait 10 to 12 hours (the number usually suggested) the doe more often refuses a second service. By using this method, I rarely have misses and frequently have litters of four, five and six. I then test breed 14 to 19 days later. Approximately one week before due date, I will palpate for movement by placing both hands on the doe's side and slightly underneath her. At this stage of pregnancy it is easy to feel the babies kicking and moving around inside her.

Another way to improve the conception rate is by making sure that the does and bucks are kept in the best possible environment. This means that during the summer they should be kept cool (a dry basement is excellent). Remember, it your buck is exposed to temperature over 85 degrees for five successive days, he may become temporarily sterile, or at the very best have a low sperm count.

Although Hollands can withstand cold temperatures with less stress than very hot temperatures, they will also breed more readily in moderate temperatures during the winter. Another important factor to consider in the winter is lighting. I turn the lights on in my rabbitry at 7:30 a.m. and often they do not go off until 10:00 p.m. This additional light improves my conception rate.

To decrease litter and maternal mortality due to hot or cold temperature extremes, I move the does into my basement approximately one week before their due date with no ill effects. Moving the does at this time does not seem to stress or upset them in any way. Cold temperatures slow down the birthing process, making it difficult for the doe. Likewise, extreme heat may cause heat exhaustion in the doe or result in a dead litter.

Approximately two to three days before the due date, I put the next box in the cage with the doe. I feel this gives her plenty of time to adjust, but does not encourage her to start soiling it. I like to use wooden boxes. These need to be disinfected and allowed to dry in the sun for a few hours between uses. The next box is lined with a disposable piece of cardboard, a layer of shredded sugar cane, or clean wood shavings, with straw on top. The day the doe is due I usually add a little more straw in the morning to replace any that was eaten.

Babies on the Wire

At times, for reasons unknown, a doe will choose not to use her next box for delivery. If you use a solid bottom floor with wood shavings and straw, this will not be a serious problem. However, if your doe has the litter on the bottom of a cage with a wire floor, and you are not lucky enough to find them within minutes of the delivery, you will lose the babies. If you do find them and they are just barely alive and ice cold, do not give up hope as I have successfully brought them "back to life" several times. I take the cold baby and rub it vigorously but gently with my hands. I then place it under warm running water, being very careful not to scald it. After I have dried the kit with a towel, I finish the warming process with a blow dryer set on low. Within minutes the virtually "dead" animal is wriggling in my hands looking for its first meal. I then foster the baby into a recently born litter where the doe has pulled a good supply of fur. I always feel great saving a life, and have had excellent results using the above procedure. Other Holland breeders also use heating pads and lamps to warm chilled babies.

"Stuck Babies"

Without a doubt, the Holland Lop breeder will experience the problem of "stuck" babies at some time. This occurs when the doe has an undelivered fetus lodged in the birth canal or in utero. The doe with such a problem can be seen sitting hunched and straining in the next box or on the wire. Sometimes they will try for hours to deliver the babies until they become exhausted. "Stuck" babies may be attributed to a narrow pelvic opening, a small, narrow birth canal, or oversized babies. Often this problem occurs with first time mothers, and the following litters will be delivered without problems. However, sometimes, it is a chronic problem with a particular doe. Does with pinched hindquarters or short cobby bodies are potential candidates for kindling problems. If this is the case and the doe has had three or four unsuccessful litters, she should be given away as a pet and not used for breeding purposes.

Interestingly, but not surprisingly, the majority of "stuck" babies are found to be breech births; that is, the hindquarters are delivered first. Although it is not a pleasant task, the breeder can physically help the doe if a portion of the baby is visible. However, the utmost care must be given to try not to break or tear the fetus while still in the birth canal. Such an occurrence could cause an infection which could be fatal to the doe. To help the doe, lubricate around the opening with glycerine, K-Y Jelly or a similar lubricant. If two people work together, one can hold the doe over a towel or even in the nest box, while the other gently pulls down on the fetus. The direction of the pull is critical and should be down and out at a 90 degree angle to the body line of the doe. Usually the doe will feel this and help by contracting. Try to pull with her contractions and avoid one long continuous pull. After a few contractions with this help, the baby will usually pop out. The most difficult part of a breech presentation often occurs upon presentation of the forelegs which are usually folded and stick out at the elbows. If one carefully removes one foreleg at a time from the cervical opening, the rest of the fetus will come out easier. Due to elongation of the fetus, additional lubrication may facilitate your "midwife" effort. After removing the fetus, clean the doe with a warm wet washcloth. Although probably not necessary, I also like to apply a topical antibiotic to the vent. Later, after returning the doe to her cage you may observe parts of the placenta or afterbirth on her cage floor. Do not remove this debris as the ingestion of it by the doe will bring about normal hormonal releases and is actually beneficial to the doe's health.

If the fetus is not visible, but you can palpate the fetus in the birth canal, and the doe appears near exhaustion, you may chose to take the doe to a veterinarian and ask him to give her a shot of oxytocin. This is an abortive drug and is recommended only through a veterinarian. The recommended dosage for Hollands is 0.2 cc, injected subcutaneously. In fact, oxytocin should be administered anytime the doe delivers a dead litter. It should not be given if one suspects there is still a fetus in either of the uterine horns.

Fatal Dwarf Gene

The fatal Dwarf gene is just the opposite of oversized babies. Here is a tiny "peanut" baby, about half the size of normal babies. The gene responsible for this phenomenon is semidominant and incompletely lethal. Genetically, it is the result of the fetus carrying two Dwarf genes, whereas a regular Holland has one Dwarf and one normal gene. These tiny double Dwarf babies, with their bulging eyes and bubble-like heads, always atrophy or shrivel from the hindquarters forward and die by the second or third day.

Miscarriages and Abortions

If, at any time during the gestation period, you see blood or other matter on the cage floor, your doe has probably had a miscarriage. Why this happens occasionally is difficult to diagnose. A doe may have one miscarriage and then no further problems. Recently, I had a doe abort the fetus one week before her due date. I returned her to a regular cage and noticed she was acting strangely. Wondering if there were other retained feti, I palpated her, and to my surprise, I felt babies kicking about inside, very much alive. One week from the date of the miscarriage, she delivered two more babies. In this case the aborted fetus may have been in the uterine horn opposite the horn where the live feti remained.

Miscarriages are usually quite rare; however, if it is a chronic problem in the rabbitry, it may be an indication of occult vent disease. When this occurs, a spirochete attaches to the uterine horns and disrupts the flow of blood to the fetus, and also reduces the fertility of the doe. If you suspect this to be a problem in your rabbitry, and your veterinarian agrees, a treatment program of oxytocin and penicillin should alleviate the problem in the does. The bucks should probably also be treated since sexually transmitted diseases frequently affect both partners.

Metritis

by Dr. Terry E. Reed

Over the past several years there have been various types of metritis (uterine infections) that have been identified throughout most parts of the United States.

It has been proven that various types of the infections can be successfully treated with antibiotics & hormones. The specific type of antibiotic depends upon the specific type of infection that is present.  Therefore, it is impossible to give a specific type of antibiotic to utilize as it would relate to the type of infectious agent that is causing the problem. The various types of hormones that are utilized will depend upon the time the animals are injected. If the animals are injected within the first 24 hours after kindling, one usually utilizes Oxytocin U.S.P. for the evacuation effect it has upon the uterus to constrict very rapidly. When the uterus constricts, this forces all the foreign materials that may be contained in the uterus, as a result of kindling, out of the uterus so it does not allow infection to take place.

If the animal is injected after 24 hours of kindling, it is then recommended that one use some type of estrogen product in order to enhance the blood supply to the uterus. By the utilization of estrogen with the antibiotic, this allows the antibiotic to be much more effective.

Holland Lops probably have more difficulty in parturition (kindling) than many of the other breeds due to the fact that these breeds are noted for their very large bold heads. This often times presents a problem as the kits are delivered & this large head has difficulty in passing through the narrow pelvis. Often times, this will slow the birthing process down & causes enhanced incidents of uterine infections. Once an animal has a uterine infection, there is a portion of that uterus that becomes nonfunctional & will not have a sufficient blood supply to maintain a pregnancy. Therefore, it is very important that these infections be kept at a minimum due to the fact that the Holland Lop will usually only have from 2 to 5 kits. If there has been a scaring of the inside of the uterus, due to infection, the litter size dwindles even further & often times it is very difficult to get the animals bred.

In my opinion, particularly in the breed described, I feel it is very important that the breeders inject the animal with at least Oxytocin within the first 24 hours after kindling. The Oxytocin can be obtained in some states from farm stores; or it may need to be obtained from your veterinarian. The dosage for Oxytocin will be one-fourth cc per animal. This should be administered subcutaneously or intramuscularly within 24 hours after kindling. If one does not inject the Oxytocin with in 24 hours, it loses its effectiveness in causing the uterus to contract. The purpose of injecting the Oxytocin is that it causes the uterus to constrict pushing out all the debris of kindling; particularly, any retained kits or retained afterbirth.

Some individuals, in addition to injecting Oxytocin within 24 hours after kindling, will also inject a small amount of Penicillin G to assist in preventing any infections. There is some very strong evidence that the administration of Oxytocin & Penicillin G, post kindling, will enhance the future breeding & will reduce the number of does that must be eliminated from the herd due to breeding problems. Penicillin G is usually utilized as a general antibiotic & is administered at the rate of 200,000 international units per ten pounds of body weight.

Some of the signs of metritis are enhanced breeding problems, increased amount of stillborn kits in the litter, does that fail to show maternal instincts & mother the kits, does that scatter kits on the wire, vaginal discharge, & multiple pinpoint abscesses around the vaginal area or in the sheath of the male animal.

Nest Box Management

by Skip Godfrey

Many losses of kits occurring from the time of parturition until the litter begins to emerge from the nest box might easily be prevented through a more thorough understanding of nest box management techniques.

Proper management of the doe and her litter involves much more than just handing out a nest box and depending on the doe for the rest. Not only is it important for the manager to know what type of nest box to use, it is imperative that he or she also know when to give the nest box to the doe, what nesting materials to use in construction of the nest, what goes on the inside of the nest, and even when to take the nest box away.

Once the doe is bred, certain hormonal changes within her body tell her that she needs to provide a nest for her forthcoming litter. Although many does will show absolutely no signs of pregnancy throughout most of the gestation period, some will begin to "dig" in a back corner of the cage and continue to do so almost every day throughout the entire duration of their pregnancy. Some does will do so much digging in the back of their cage that they will actually wear down their nails, and may even wear the fur off of their pads in the process. I have even seen does that have pulled their teeth out of occlusion by tugging on the urine guards. From past experience, I have found it advantageous to give these anxious does an early nest box rather than have them frustrate themselves trying to dig a hole that can never be dug in the back of their cage for thirty-one days.

Usually, these does will build a nest and once this job has been completed, they will be content to lie around for the remainder of their term. This kind of doe will usually not go into or soil her nest in any way, even if it is in the cage for the entire thirty-one days.

With other does that show no signs of nest building, I normally wait until three or four days before they are due before I provide them with a nest box. If they are given a nest box any earlier, they usually consume the nesting material or even use the nest box as a toilet. In the event that a doe does soil her nest, it is imperative that the nest box be replaced immediately with a clean one containing new nesting material. It is also important that the nest box not be placed in the corner of the cage that the doe normally uses for a bathroom. Doing so will only encourage the doe to urinate and defecate in the nest box.

Construction of the nest box itself along with the selection of appropriate nesting material is probably the most crucial part in the prevention of nest box mortality. After much experimentation with various types of nest boxes and nest building materials as well as the various methods of placing these materials in the nest box, I have adopted a system that I find works nearly one-hundred percent of the time both in satisfying the nesting instincts of the doe and in preventing unnecessary losses of kits in the nest box.

To begin with, I use only the "half -top" nest boxes for two important reasons: first, the half-top nest box resembles a "rabbit-hole" as far as the doe is concerned, because, like a rabbit hole, it surrounds her with protection and makes her feel secure. Second, the half-top nest box also affords the doe a "sitting board" to get up and away from the bunnies when they start coming out of the nest box.

I also prefer to use the metal nest boxes that have a removable wooden floor which can be taken out in extremely hot weather preventing the kits from being literally "baked alive". In the cooler weather the wooden floor offers a warmer and more natural surface for the bunnies to walk on than a metal one. Also, there is better drainage provided with this type of nest box because the urine is able to escape around the areas where the metal sides come in contact with the edges of the wooden floor.

Many of these nest boxes come with masonite floors instead of wood. Most masonite has both a smooth and a rough side. It is imperative that the rough side be placed up so that the bunnies have a nonslip surface on which to walk. If the floor of the nest box is smooth, bunnies can develop a crippling condition known as "spraddle leg", or "splay leg" as a result of their feet constantly slipping out to the sides.

Of utmost importance in nest box management is sanitation. Before a nest box is given to the doe it should be thoroughly sanitized. An excellent method of sterilizing nest boxes is to spray them with a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach to 5 parts water and letting this solution remain in the nest box for about twenty minutes before it is thoroughly rinsed to remove the chlorine odor. Then leave the nest box outside for a day in the sun so that the ultraviolet light can kill any remaining bacteria.

Next to sanitation, the type and arrangement of nest box material that is presented to the doe is the second most important step in preventing nest box problems. I have found that the best way to make a nest is to line the bottom of the nest box with about an inch of wood shavings and then stuff the box full of hay or straw and then "punch" a fist down through the center several times to create a tunnel. This tunnel should be at a downward angle from the opening at the front of the nest box all the way to the back and it should be completely surrounded with hay or straw - even at the top. Once I have formed my tunnel, I reach my hand all the way into the back of the nest box and pull back on the nesting material so that the end of the tunnel opens into a small "room" at the back of the nest box. This is the system that works best for me.

This type of system is readily accepted by the doe because it simulates the kind of nest that a doe would build if she were living in the wild. A doe living in the wild will find the side of a hill and dig a hole down into it at an angle of about 30 to 45 degrees. She will line the hole with grass and other material she finds and then she will line it with fur she has pulled from her belly. Both the length and downward angle of the tunnel prevent any bunnies from riding out of the nest on a nipple because they are brushed off and roll back down into the nesting material at the bottom of the hole as the doe leaves the nest. This is the reason why rabbits do not instinctively retrieve their bunnies that get out on the wire.

Once the doe has kindled it is important for the manager to immediately check the nest and remove any dead or deformed bunnies. This is also a good time to balance the litters so that one doe is not raising six bunnies while another doe only has one. Letting a doe raise only one bunny is not a good practice as it permits the single bunny to get too much milk which will cause it to grow into a much larger rabbit than it would normally be otherwise. This may be okay for a meat rabbit but is disastrous for anyone who is trying to raise any of the dwarf breeds.

Some people mark fostered bunnies by tattooing a single dot in their ears so that they may be identified at a later date. Unfortunately, these dots grow with the ears and I prefer to simply foster colored rabbits in with whites or with bunnies that are a different color from the ones being fostered. If bunnies of the same color must be fostered together, I have found that a small piece of scotch tape stuck on the bunnies' backs works very well. The mothers can't "clean" these off, and when the tape is removed at about two weeks of age it leaves an indentation in the fur that remains until the bunnies get their final coat of fur at about three to four months of age. By then they are already tattooed and I have no further need for the identification mark.

While the kits are still in the nest box, it is important to understand that a doe will only nurse her litter once a day and only for about two or three minutes. Because of this, it is possible to raise rabbits "on the shelf" by removing the nest boxes from the cages and returning them to their respective mothers for a few minutes each morning. Most does prefer the morning for nursing although some will nurse in the afternoon. Raising bunnies on the shelf can become an important management technique during temperature extremes so that litters can remain in the warmth of the house while the mothers are outside.

Once the bunnies have opened their eyes and are becoming active in the nest box, I remove the box from the cage. I feel this prevents problems with eye infections and also losses of bunnies as a result of fur blockage caused by the bunnies munching on bits and pieces of hay that are covered with fur. If, for some reason, it becomes necessary to leave the nest box with the doe for longer than two weeks, it is a good idea to substitute the old soiled nest box with a new one that has been sanitized and contains only a layer of shavings covering the floor. This should be adequate to eliminate any problems for the doe or her litter caused by ingesting fur or by contact with any contaminated nesting material.

As can readily be seen, the nest box is a far more complex system than it appears at a glance, and is one that requires continuous monitoring by the rabbit manager. Strict attention to sanitation is imperative, and simulation of the kind of nest that a rabbit would naturally construct in the wild will go a long way toward elimination many problems that can confront the manager as a result of improper nest box management.

Orphans & Spinach Babies

by Terry Pierce

ORPHANED BUNNIES: Do not over handle babies or try to feed too much too frequently. Try giving a small amount about every 4 hours cutting back to twice a day (morning & night) when they are eating well. You can successfully raise a two week old and will feed It until about 5 weeks when it will start to refuse feedings - at this time you will have water, pellets, & oatmeal for the baby to eat, also possibly a little grass hay or clean straw.

You will need to gently swab the anal area with a warm water soaked cotton ball to stimulate urination and defecation for the first week or two if the baby is very young.

It takes a lot of time and patience. The greatest dangers are aspiration (forcing liquids too fast and causing the bunny to choke or get into its lungs), pneumonia, hypothermia, and diarrhea.

You can use a small bottle from the vet or feed supply house or a baby nursing kit (Linda & David Pett of CA also carry these) which also has instructions and works real well.

Keep the baby in a box with shavings and warm soft material (or even some of the nesting material). Keep it out of drafts. You may want to put a light over the box for extra warmth the first few days. Keep the box size relevant to size and age. Obviously an older bunny needs more room. When my baby out grew its box I put it in a larger box with shavings and cut the front down on its little box and set it in for a bed. Then it graduated to a carrying cage with the dividers removed, feed dishes, and a small "blanket" to lay on. "Sweet Pea" now runs around the house with our Cocker Spaniel, Buffy, and is 8 weeks old. Tender loving care can save that little one, and you will have a fun little friendly bunny.

SPINACH BABIES: Suddenly you have an orphaned bunny to raise; or you have a 3 week old that sits in the back and seems to be wasting away; or you realize a doe's milk is not good while she is still feeding a young litter; or maybe you have a large litter and one or two babies just aren't getting enough to eat. When you can't foster to another doe, what do you do? Baby food spinach to the rescue. Several of us have successfully raised young babies two weeks of age and older by patiently feeding baby food spinach with a syringe (without the needle). Put a drop on the baby's mouth and let it lick it off; another drop and so on. It takes time and patience to feed at first. The baby has to learn to like the spinach and get used to eating it.

You will need to feed several tiny amounts a day the first day or two, then as it eats more at one time you can cut back the frequency until you feed just two times - morning and night. As the sole source of food or drink a lot of us have successfully raised several babies that would have otherwise died into healthy youngsters, with no diarrhea problems. The additional bonus is how sweet the little bunny becomes.

It is messy so have a soft tissue handy to wipe your little green piggy with. It is sure funny to watch the baby beg for its goodies as it gets used to the spinach, and how fast and how much they can eat at a time. If you can get the baby to eat the spinach you can usually save it. So keep a jar of baby food spinach on hand. You never know when you may need it!

ORPHAN MILK FORMULAS

FORMULA 1. Sharon Sprague via Dr. Stephen Kinney:

1 cup milk
3 Egg Yolks
1.25 TBSP Light Corn syrup
1 Drop oral multiple baby vitamin
Pinch of Salt
Place in Blender and Blend. Warm 95 to 100 degrees.

FORMULA 2: Vet Book "Orphan Rabbits, Hares, and Pikas" pg 175

1 Egg Yolk
240 mi Canned Evaporated Milk
240 mi Water
5 mi Honey
5 mi Pediatric Vitamins

FORMULA 3: Vet Book "Orphan Rabbits, Hares, and Pikas" pg 175

120 mi Can Evaporated Milk
120 mi Water
15 mi Karo Syrup (Light)
1 Egg (optional)

This one I used on a 2 week old successfully:

13 oz. can Concentrated Liquid Baby Formula
5 oz. can Evaporated milk
5 oz. Water
1 TBSP Honey
2 Eggs Beaten

                         Palpation

by Dr. Terry E. Reed

This is the easiest and most accepted method of determining pregnancy in the domestic rabbit.

Twelve to fifteen days after a female rabbit has been successfully mated, conception may be determined by palpation (feeling) the developing kits within the abdominal cavity (belly). This will determine if the doe is "bred" and will kindle at the termination of the twenty-eight to thirty-two day gestation period.

Palpation is the term used to indicate the actual feeling of the developing kits in the abdominal area with the thumb and fingers of one hand. First impression may indicate that this procedure is very difficult to comprehend and dangerous to the welfare of the forming kits. With time, patience and understanding most individuals, youth included, can become proficient in the palpation technique and when used appropriately, the possible damage to the young is minimal.

There are many advantages to palpating does for pregnancy at 12-15 days after successful mating. These are as follows:

1. Allows the rebreeding of the 'nonpregnant' does immediately. This increases the efficiency and the usefulness of the doe. This allows the 'nonpregnant' doe that is rebred, the opportunity to be more than half way into another pregnancy. This is beneficial in allowing the manager to have the litter born as close to the desired date as possible and to get the most possible number of kits from that individual doe per year.

2. Allows the manager to maintain the doe in proper and appropriate flesh condition. Pregnant does have increased nutritional requirements during the last one-third of gestation period and require increased feed intake to insure the healthiest offspring possible. Does that have the feed intake increased and are not pregnant have a tendency to get fat and will have excessive fat around the reproductive organs. Does that are too fat tend to have reproductive problems and many become difficult to get bred. Often these does have to be culled from the herd for lack of productivity. This is a dramatic financial loss when breeding stock is lost from the herd.

3. Saves time, money and labor. Preparing, inserting and maintaining a nest box for the doe requires sanitation, filling the box with nesting materials, and time and effort in placing the box in the doe's cage. In addition to the increased amount of feed required when the doe is not pregnant. These are all wasted expenses and effort.

4. Saves and prevents disappointment. Everyone anticipates the arrival of a new litter of rabbits.

POSITIONING THE DOE FOR PALPATION

The doe should be positioned on a flat, non-slippery surface (covered with carpet or burlap) and at a height that the elbow of the technician can be comfortably rested. A slippery surface will tend to frighten the doe and increase the difficulty of the procedure from 'tightened' abdominal muscles.

The doe must be restrained from movement by gently, but firmly, holding the head (covering the eyes) with one hand. This allows the opposite hand to be slowly and gently placed, palm up, under the abdominal area just in front of the rear legs. The elbow can rest on the examining table while the hand and forearm is elevated just enough to raise the back portion of the rabbit to a point that the rear legs barely touch the table. Simply, the doe is restrained with one hand and her hind portion is held in the palm of the opposite hand with the elbow resting on the table surface to stabilize the doe's position.

PALPATION SITE

The area of the abdominal cavity that one will wish to explore for the development of kits will be from the pelvis forward and from the top of the belly cavity (bottom of loin muscle) to the bottom of the abdominal cavity (belly muscles) above the mammary gland. With the doe resting in the palm of the hand, this allows the thumb and fingers to be on opposite sides of the doe's abdominal cavity, the area that is to be explored for the development of kits.

Twelve to fifteen days after conception, the developing kits will most commonly be located in the rear portion (in front of the pelvis) and in the mid portion (up and down) of the abdominal cavity. Later in the gestation period, due to the enlargement, the developing kits will be lower and farther forward in the abdominal cavity.

The above palpation sites will be exactly the same position regardless of the size of the doe (whether Netherland Dwarf or Flemish Giant).

PALPATION

With the doe properly positioned, restrained and the general site located, the exploration is ready to be initiated when the abdominal muscles of the doe are completely relaxed. This is important, when the muscles are not relaxed it will be like attempting to feel a small object through a rigid wall of a tube, as compared to feeling small objects through a soft pliable tubular stocking.

The developing kits at 12 to 15 days after conception will be about the size of a grape, or marble (one-half to three-quarters inch in diameter) and will be about the same size at 1 2 to 1 5 days in smaller does as in giant does. The texture (feel) of the 'grape' or 'marble' will be rather turgid (firm) and more round than the other objects that can be palpated in the abdominal area. One may wish to imagine that they are searching for a 'night crawler' that swallowed several 'grapes' or 'marbles'. These will be the developing kits within the walls of the uterus.

Be aware that one is feeling through fur, skin, abdominal muscles, uterine wall and viscera for the above described developing kit to 'slide' between thumb and forefingers. The thumb and forefingers must rhythmically, gently and repeatedly come together and relax exploring the entire described area for the developing kits. Once the object is discovered the palpation process should be discontinued.

Should the doe tense (tighten) the abdominal muscles, stop the activity of the fingers and thumb, keeping the hand in position until the doe relaxes then continue the search. The amount of pressure between the thumb and fingers should be sufficient to the degree that the bumps and grooves of the material in the abdominal cavity can be determined and differentiated.

There is a tendency for most beginners not to exert a sufficient pressure to identify the structure for fear of injury to them, and to be very impatient thinking "all that stuff feels the same." Be cautious, thorough and allow time for the fingers to become accustomed to the materials that are being touched within the cavity.

Developing kits are most demarcated at 12 to 15 days into the gestation period and easiest to identify at this time. With experience one can determine pregnancy as early as 9 days. As the pregnancy advances the developing kits become larger, longer, softer and they lost their demarcation causing them to become much more difficult to identify and differentiate from the other abdominal cavity contents. In addition, during the later stages of development the possibility of injury to the feti increases.

When one encounters a developing feti in the palpation process, the procedure should be discontinued and the doe considered bred.

Molting Doe

I have a doe that has never finished her first moult. What can I do? She is ten months old and raising her first liter.

When dealing with does, a breeder needs to be realistic about where the individual doe fits into their program. Energy is either put into fur maintenance or pregnancy and lactation. If you intend to keep breeding her, then give up the notion of getting her to molt through. If you decide to show her, the easiest way to induce a molt is to completely change feed to a low protein formula; 1 4% or lower is ideal. After feeding the low protein diet for a couple of weeks, change the feed to a higher protein level, 16% to 17%, along with adequate fiber. Lowering and raising the metabolism level of the rabbit should trigger a complete molt. If it doesn't, retire her to production. A note of caution: Do not feed a protein level lower than 16% during winter in unheated rabbitries. The protein is too low for the rabbit to produce enough calories to keep warm.